Rupin Pass Himalayan Trek

Why do you have to trek? It's dangerous! Why can't you just be a "normal 34 yr old mom"!!!
Why?
Because when the mountains call, one has to go...

Cliché?? yet so very True!!

For me, it's not about boasting, or any summit fever or trying to prove something. It's all about the mountains, and how just being surrounded by them fills me with euphoria. It's like meditation - away from everything worldly, away from even the thoughts of the day to day life, away from everything pretentious. Just so close to nature, so close to pure beauty, that it fills you up with simple yet profound happiness. And when you come back to the "real" world, you come back to the same world you left behind, to the world you belong to, and yet something has changed, and that makes a whole lot of difference.

But then I trek! I don't drive to some hill station and settle in a plush resort. Because such pure happiness, cannot be obtained without working for it. You have to walk and climb and endure and persevere to be able to witness the heavenly vistas. You have to feel each step, sense each breath - only then you are one with the mountains. And it's not easy. No, not at all. It's a jumble of emotions, ups and downs, physically tough, mentally challenging. But in the end - It's worth every bit!!

I recently did Rupin pass trek in Himachal - one of the coveted high altitude non technical treks in the Himalayas, and my fourth Himalayan Trek. I had been wanting to do this since a very long time, and amidst work deadlines and family obligations, was finally able to go for it this September. Sept-Oct season meant no snow, but I could live with that.

Guest House at Jiskun Village

Our journey with Indiahikes [https://indiahikes.com/] started in Shimla, where the 14 of us, started on road towards Chirgaon. The ride was quite bumpy and dusty, and the sole saviour were the shared stories and jokes/conversations between us. At Chirgaon guest house we met our Trek Lead and Guide and were given a very informative briefing. Amidst the shared anxieties, excitement and novelty our camaraderie increased. Next day was another day on the road - another bumpy ride, but this time a scenic one. It started with apple orchards, till we reached the highest point called Chanshil Top, which was very windy and plain verdant, and finally with pine covered mountains all around. Our drive ended just 2 hours [on foot] short of Jiskun village. This 2 hour climb was quite steep and under the midday blazing sun. Evening was spent, exploring the village, playing silly yet fun games and getting to know each other.

Jhaka - The Hanging Village

Next day was a long one - we had to cover a distance of 9 kms and with the snacks and lunch break, it took us almost 8 hours to reach our camp at Udaknal. Trek was very scenic, crossing the hanging village of Jhaka [where we indulged in apples and maggi and tea], amidst the tall Pine trees, with Rupin River as our constant companion. There is just something about Pine - one feels dwarfed, can't help craning your neck again n again to see how tall these trees are. The constant sound of flowing water was music to my ears and I could already feel transported to another world. At the campsite, more catching up with each other happened, and we replenished our energies with snacks, soup, dinner etc. This is where I also discovered that the couple of small insect bites on my legs, were actually spider bites, and now had developed into very ugly and big rashes. Oops!!

Carpet of Pink

Next day was a very scenic one - a gradual climb for some 5 hours. I took more time, with all the meanderings. There was no rush, weather was good, had all the time to reach the camp while admiring the flora around. The flora is varied - rhododendrons are the only ones I could recognise. But then one can view myriad colours - the fall colours along with patches of tiny flowers. So there was a carpet of white flowers, a carpet of red, pink etc. Also spotted some "Bhoj' Trees, thanks to our guide. I knew the legend around them, but this was the first time I was seeing them. I off course have some of the bark with me now :-) Again Rupin river was along with us throughout - At one point suddenly the sound of the river almost vanishes. You can feel the sudden silence.

On the way to Dhandheras Thatch

On the way to Dhandheras Thatch - Rupin waterfall visible

Our campsite at Dhandheras Thatch was quite pretty, along the river, between the valley, with a clear view of the three tier Rupin Waterfall. Who wouldn't want to stay here? And we did, for two nights. Soaking in the serenity, we acclimatised ourselves, as the next two days were going to be comparatively tougher. Plus the weather changed - the Sun vanished and we got hail, followed by rain for an entire evening. I would be lying if I say, I wasn't nervous about the weather. 

Fall Hues

Next morning, it wasn't raining [Thankfully], but it wasn't sunny either. It was foggy and cool, with signs of clouds and the inevitable rain. The climb was pretty steep, and one could feel the thinning air. I tried to keep my steady pace, steady breathing - although we were kind off rushed to reach the camp site, before the weather worsens. We climbed the entire length of waterfall, crossed it at a point, reached the upper water fall site, and then climbed some more to reach Rata Pheri [Our highest Camp site]. This was a particularly tough day for me, as my throat had given up and was aching like hell! The entire climb, I was just chewing cloves and lozenges alternatively.

As we climb on..

At Rata Pheri, I just sat inside my tent, sipping warm water [luxury], while it hailed - Yes we had reached at the nick of time in our tents, cuz it hailed nicely. I can't imagine doing the climb which we had just done, in hail and rain, which would have made the trail quite slippery. While we sat thanking our stars and contemplating, it began to snow. Wow mixed feelings - the soft falling snow flakes feels so good, and in minutes, the landscape turned white. But then what about the pass crossing climb tomorrow? Won't this kind of weather make it much more tougher? Will it still be doable without the crampons? And how cold was it going to get in the night? The entire evening I spent with such mixed emotions. Enjoying, joking and clicking pics on one hand, and freezing and anxious on the other hand. Our Trek Lead and guide were quite up beat, so that kind of assuaged our combined fears and anxiety, and one thing was clear - this is the point of no return, we have to cross the pass haha :-)

Our Campsite after the Snowfall abated - Imagine waking up to this :-)

Next morning, the sky was clear, and so was my mind. All anxieties had vanished and I was super excited for the day ahead. We started as a queue of trekkers - pass crossing has to be done as a group, walking together in a row, focusing on one's steps. It wasn't long before it dawned on me that the snow fall was actually a blessing in disguise. Not only did it provide the very helpful grip on the rocks [which was the path all the way till the base of the pass, and the actual pass is full of lose stones and rocks], it had made everything so beautiful. The salt and pepper hues of the mountains/ the pass and the path was surreal. I just couldn't get enough of it - I was ecstatic!

Rupin Pass in the background - Salt and Pepper Hues

Climbing in a file

On reaching the top of the pass [Our highest point of the trek 15,350 ft], the first thing that's noticeable are the multiple "stone cairns". Some of them so precariously placed, that it made me wonder, who kept them there :-). While everybody was rejoicing and kept clicking, I took a moment to savour that moment. To look around and capture the heavenly sights in my memory, to forever imprint in my memory the feelings of that particular moment. Today's climb was exhilarating, and years from now, whenever I think of my Rupin Pass trek, I would like to come back to this very moment!

Top of Rupin Pass - Stone Crains

Himalayas are Tough! Beautiful ! Mighty, Ah so Majestic ! - one feels completely humble in its lap. All the negativity cease to exist and one is filled with pure bliss.